Removing Marine Engine Fuel Injectors
August 9, 2009 by Chris Wethered
Filed under Boat Engines And Sailboat Hardware, Questions Visitors Are Asking And Answers
If your motor is complaining from the symptoms below, then the fuel injectors or related components need attention:
- Erratic RPM
- Difficulty in starting, engine dying
- Knocking noises
- White or black smoke
The reasons for the above can be attributed to:
- Contamination of the fuel or fuel lines - dirt
- Faulty washers
- Water in the fuel
- Poor maintenance
Fuel filter
Before getting to the title topic, let's go over the importance of the filters. Diesel engines operate within very fine parameters. The force and timing of the injector itself is measured at twenty thousands PSI and can be pumped up to ten times each second! For this process to run smoothly, you must make sure those filters are replaced frequently! Water and dirt contribute to deterioration of the parts.
Selection of fuel injectors
Additives
Depending on where the diesel is distilled, different additives are used along with Sulfur. The additives can prolong the effective life of the diesel, but at the same time deteriorate the fueling components. Taking Sulfur as an example: On combustion it forms a highly corrosive gas that is absorbed by engine oil. Over time the oil becomes more toxic and needs to be changed. Keeping the filters and lines clean will go a long way to prolonging the life of the injectors.
Operational check up:
- If your engine displays the symptoms described then check fuel supply is free of air
- Look at the fuel shut off valve - is it closed?
- Remove injector lines from pumps
- Whilst turning over the starter engine, watch for splodges of fuel are shot from the injector heads
- If not, bleed the lines of air and repeat
Before removing the injectors, get a mechanic to double check the situation, this would be cheaper than replacing the injectors!
Parts overview
Removing the fuel injectors:
- Having taken off the lines, see whether the component will move without too much trouble. This done to maintenance. If well looked after it will be easy, if not then lubricate with deep penetrating oil and twist side to side.
- Now clean the component of all rust, combusted materials etc. Toweling is helpful. Replace the washers.
- Replace the injector and the lines, tighten accordingly. Flush out the air from the lines and try the engine.
It's time to pour on the goodies! West Marine offer a 10% discount on orders over $100!
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Eight Inboard Engine Seasonal Checks
August 6, 2009 by Chris Wethered
Filed under Boat Engines And Sailboat Hardware, Questions Visitors Are Asking And Answers
Recently, comments have been left on the posts over a range of topics. Ten seasonal checks for your inboard engine is a drawing together of those questions:
Here are those checks which should be conducted seasonally or when indicated - more frequently.
Securing the mounting bolts
As marine diesel engines shudder, shake and generally produce a lot of vibration, even on good days, you should tighten all the supporting bolts. A securely fastened motor, wont jump out of it's fixtures. The more time your engine is left on, or is working, the more vibrations run through the bolts and loosen them.
Tightening the stuffing box
Ensure that only a few drops of liquid are escaping from the box. If this is the case great. If not then take two wrenches and tighten the nuts accordingly. Release the clamps to check for corrosion, rotate to hose and reclamp at each end. If the hose is cracked or worn - replace. Check over each component that makes up the unit.
Tighten screws, replace worn parts. Once the engine has been running a while check the stuffing box for temperature, if it is hot, then you need to repack the stuff to minimize wear.
Zinc anode part of your seasonal checks?
Gasket head test
Check coolant for oil. Take a glass and partially fill with coolant from the expansion tank. Give it a moment to settle. What do you see? If the liquid is oily or milky in color, then thoroughly go over the gasket head for signs of wear. More information on gasket heads
Exhaust pipe examination
Taking a spot light, examine the pipe for signs of corrosion. When diesel is combusted, thirty five percent of the total amount is driven off as exhaust. This exhaust is highly corrosive and therefore the exhaust pipe will suffer. Signs of weakness maybe masked by oil deposits, jacketing around the pipe and so on. If pitting is visible over the exterior, then the pipe must be replaced.
Belt tensions
Ought to taught and elastic. Some give is good. Cracked belts are dangerous, so replace them. Check all wiring and connects at the same time as belts. Faulty wiring leads to aluminum corrosion
Leaks
Check all hoses, pipes and connectors. Use a clean cloth to determine any leaks. Be sure to wipe underneath them as well. That's where accumulation occurs. Generally the condition they need to be in is soft, and squeezable. Not the pipes of course. If they are in that condition - replace! Search for kinks too. Places where gases and fluids accumulate. If a back log starts then that will lead to a series of interconnected problems later on.
Cylinder gasket heads
Pumps and filters
Check the fuel pump, fuel filters and fuel supply shut off valve. The minimum requirement of the filters is to stop water getting in and to absorb contaminates. Check them daily, or before each use. If after three months you find the bowl needs draining, then you should also clean the fuel tank.
Each time you change the oil, change the filter as well. You need to be able to get a wrench around the canister in order to change the filter. Change the oil seasonally or every one hundred and twenty five hours. Which ever comes first! Remember the fuel injector gradually wears and should be tested seasonally. This makes sure the fuel is being atomized effectively.
Monitor the drip catch tray under the engine and the bilges too. These act as early warning signs as to the health of your motor. This should be done daily or before you fire up.
Water pump
As the cooling of marine engines is critical to safe use, the water pump needs thorough, frequent inspections.
- Thirty percent of energy in combustion is heat
- Thirty five percent is exhaust
- Thirty five percent is usable power
Overheating causes damage very quickly with a series of knock on effects. You need to ensure that regardless as to your type of cooling system (direct / indirect) that the flow of raw water is not impeded. Plus that the impeller is able to operate. Direct cooling systems, require less overall maintaining, as they are simpler. Indirect systems have added components and so are more timely.
It's time to pour on the goodies with West Marine! That's right! When you spend over $100 you get 10% discount!
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How To Adjust An Outboard Engine To The Transom
July 28, 2009 by Chris Wethered
Filed under Boat Engines And Sailboat Hardware, Questions Visitors Are Asking And Answers
Getting this right can really aid a smooth ride!
Setting the position of the outboard engine to the transom has variables that need consideration. If the position is not correct, then your going to have trouble with a range of issues including:
- Trim - the ability to move the motor to a better angle whilst in the water for optimum performance
- Tilt - taking the lower unit out of the water and locking it, whilst the boat is in transit or not being used
- Low boat speed - outboard not performing well and being inefficient
- High boat speed - too many revs and not enough speed
The relationship between these variables helps to fix the outboard to the transom correctly
Brackets used to fix outboard to transom
Let's go through them in turn:
Trim
The outboard needs to be perpendicular to the water. There are two systems for this movement, manual or hydraulic, depending on the engine size.
There are pros and cons for both. Here's two:
- With manual adjust you can only do so when stationary
- Hydraulic systems are susceptible to corrosion from the elements, so maintaining them is more involved
Trim and tilt explained
Essentially they do the same job though. Here is what to look out for:
Propeller too far from transom
The bow will be too far out of the water
Tilt
Is the ability to pivot the motor all the way to it's raised position. S o the lower unit is out of the water when not in use. Essentially it is a leveraged locking system that needs occasional greasing to ensure smooth lifting and lowering.
In order to check the outboard is at the correct height on the transom, you need to answer
the following questions:
- Is engine speed higher than normal?
Then the outboard needs to be adjusted lower in the water. This is done by using the brackets, which secure the outboard to the transom.
- Is boat speed too low?
In this case the drive from the propeller is inefficient. The answer is to either lower or heighten the motor on the transom, easy to identify which.
Other concerns
- Overloading your boat will result in poor engine performance
- Uneven load distribution affects boat speed and steering
Did you know about the 10% discount at West Marine right now?
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