Removing Marine Engine Fuel Injectors
August 9, 2009 by Chris Wethered
Filed under Boat Engines And Sailboat Hardware, Questions Visitors Are Asking And Answers
If your motor is complaining from the symptoms below, then the fuel injectors or related components need attention:
- Erratic RPM
- Difficulty in starting, engine dying
- Knocking noises
- White or black smoke
The reasons for the above can be attributed to:
- Contamination of the fuel or fuel lines - dirt
- Faulty washers
- Water in the fuel
- Poor maintenance
Fuel filter
Before getting to the title topic, let's go over the importance of the filters. Diesel engines operate within very fine parameters. The force and timing of the injector itself is measured at twenty thousands PSI and can be pumped up to ten times each second! For this process to run smoothly, you must make sure those filters are replaced frequently! Water and dirt contribute to deterioration of the parts.
Selection of fuel injectors
Additives
Depending on where the diesel is distilled, different additives are used along with Sulfur. The additives can prolong the effective life of the diesel, but at the same time deteriorate the fueling components. Taking Sulfur as an example: On combustion it forms a highly corrosive gas that is absorbed by engine oil. Over time the oil becomes more toxic and needs to be changed. Keeping the filters and lines clean will go a long way to prolonging the life of the injectors.
Operational check up:
- If your engine displays the symptoms described then check fuel supply is free of air
- Look at the fuel shut off valve - is it closed?
- Remove injector lines from pumps
- Whilst turning over the starter engine, watch for splodges of fuel are shot from the injector heads
- If not, bleed the lines of air and repeat
Before removing the injectors, get a mechanic to double check the situation, this would be cheaper than replacing the injectors!
Parts overview
Removing the fuel injectors:
- Having taken off the lines, see whether the component will move without too much trouble. This done to maintenance. If well looked after it will be easy, if not then lubricate with deep penetrating oil and twist side to side.
- Now clean the component of all rust, combusted materials etc. Toweling is helpful. Replace the washers.
- Replace the injector and the lines, tighten accordingly. Flush out the air from the lines and try the engine.
It's time to pour on the goodies! West Marine offer a 10% discount on orders over $100!
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How To Maintain The Cylinder Heads On Marine Engines
August 7, 2009 by Chris Wethered
Filed under Boat Engines And Sailboat Hardware, Questions Visitors Are Asking And Answers
Pistons and cylinder heads, get more wear than any other marine engine components. Without regular maintenance the following signs need to be monitored:
- Overheating
- Distortion
- Leaking
- Coughing
- Power lose
cylinder heads providing an air tight seal - the cover
Overheating
This can mean cracking of the cylinder head. The reason for this is adding cold water to an overheated engine. If this is the case, then change your cylinder head.
Distortion
The seal between cylinder head and engine block is not strong. Any unevenness will lead to air, oil or coolant transfer. The temperature differential means added stress and so distortion occurs. Avoid this by tightening the bolts frequently.
Coughing
The gasket beneath the cylinder head maybe leaking. The coughing is due to engine coolant mixing with oil. The worse this gets, the less likely your engine will start!
Power lose
If you experience this then this demonstrates a lot of cylinder wear
Filters
The air intake filter is important to regulating the engine heat. Make sure it is clear at all times
The above signs and reasons, are associated with cylinder head trouble. Usually they are contributory factors, that if monitored as part of the marine engine maintenance process, prolong the lifespan of your motor.
once cover removed, here are the heads
If your analysis leads you to wanting to do a cylinder head compression test, then here is an outline. You ought to be aware, that this test requires an understanding of the comparasion of cylinders and that the outcome may not be totally accurate.
In other words, if you determine that a cylinder is faulty - get it checked by a mechanic before going further!
Compression testing
- Take a dummy injector with a gauge measure
- Remove the injectors, test each cylinder individually. Turn over the starter engine to develop compression and whilst the dummy injector is in position, watch the pressure gauge
- Perform the test with out oil first - dry on all the heads write down the pressures as you go
- Now do the same again - wet, this is were you may notice the gauge pressure increase much quicker!
- If there was no significant increase in pressure, then your problem could lie with the valve seats
- If there is then consider the piston rings
Bare in mind: changing over these parts is tricky and if you are not experienced, could lead to bad experience! (Talk about killing off the fun!)
It's time to pour on the goodies with West Marine! That's right! When you spend over $100 you get 10% discount!
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How To Adjust An Outboard Engine To The Transom
July 28, 2009 by Chris Wethered
Filed under Boat Engines And Sailboat Hardware, Questions Visitors Are Asking And Answers
Getting this right can really aid a smooth ride!
Setting the position of the outboard engine to the transom has variables that need consideration. If the position is not correct, then your going to have trouble with a range of issues including:
- Trim - the ability to move the motor to a better angle whilst in the water for optimum performance
- Tilt - taking the lower unit out of the water and locking it, whilst the boat is in transit or not being used
- Low boat speed - outboard not performing well and being inefficient
- High boat speed - too many revs and not enough speed
The relationship between these variables helps to fix the outboard to the transom correctly
Brackets used to fix outboard to transom
Let's go through them in turn:
Trim
The outboard needs to be perpendicular to the water. There are two systems for this movement, manual or hydraulic, depending on the engine size.
There are pros and cons for both. Here's two:
- With manual adjust you can only do so when stationary
- Hydraulic systems are susceptible to corrosion from the elements, so maintaining them is more involved
Trim and tilt explained
Essentially they do the same job though. Here is what to look out for:
Propeller too far from transom
The bow will be too far out of the water
Tilt
Is the ability to pivot the motor all the way to it's raised position. S o the lower unit is out of the water when not in use. Essentially it is a leveraged locking system that needs occasional greasing to ensure smooth lifting and lowering.
In order to check the outboard is at the correct height on the transom, you need to answer
the following questions:
- Is engine speed higher than normal?
Then the outboard needs to be adjusted lower in the water. This is done by using the brackets, which secure the outboard to the transom.
- Is boat speed too low?
In this case the drive from the propeller is inefficient. The answer is to either lower or heighten the motor on the transom, easy to identify which.
Other concerns
- Overloading your boat will result in poor engine performance
- Uneven load distribution affects boat speed and steering
Did you know about the 10% discount at West Marine right now?
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Boat Blocks
July 25, 2009 by Chris Wethered
Filed under Boat Engines And Sailboat Hardware
Are Your Boat Blocks In Need Of Replacement? Ronstan's Orbit Range Are Designed For Performance And Endurance
At the heart of Ronstans's Orbit Range is your boat blocks performance and the impact they have on overall boat handling.
Not only that, they have your best interests in mind too!
Check through this list to see why:
- Minimized weight - using amongst other components reinforced carbon fiber
- Made from the strongest materials - for example PTFE impregnated, engineered nylon
- They use cutting edge ratchet technology - to reduce wear, whilst offering superior strength
- Offer sheet and control line function - for a range of sheave sizes and line diameters
Several Orbits working together
These pieces of sailboat hardware take a beating!
Not only are they under considerable load whilst you sail. They are also in constant battle with sunshine, wind, rain and salt erosion.
Depending on your requirements, you can choose a traditional ratchet block for the main, or for your asymmetric, choose the auto engaging ratchet control.
If your blocks are dated, then you may well be facing an overhaul of them soon. For example the ball bearings could be wearing through, interfering with the operation of the ratchet.
The size of your boat governs the loads that are managed by the blocks. If you have changed an aspect of your sail area for example you should check that the new sail area is within the abilities of the block.
Replacement means taking advantage in technology. That means that you will be investing in the longer term value of your boat.
Learn more from this video presentation:
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