Teak Refinishing

Marine paints, varnishes and sealants including teak refinishing products are all subject to a range of conditions. Products which work wonders in one region, will not be so convincing elsewhere. Being aware of this means teak deck replacement can be postponed. The conditions around these products are so numerous it is difficult to give finite answers to questions like "What product is best for............?"

In this case there are a couple of contenders with different qualities to suit.

Linseed Oil

Linseed oil is represented in most teak maintenance products. It is excellent at preservation, however it does darken the teak as a result. This is due to carbonization from the sun. If the deck is to retain its nature color, then the oil should be scrubbed from the wood twice a year.

If your interested in wood repairs, have peek at DIY Wood Boat

Tung Oil

Has better water resistant qualities than linseed oil. However it is more expensive. Tung oil does not darken the wood, but carbonization does occur. As the darkening is not as prevalent with Tung oil scrubbing back to the natural color, need only be done once a year.

Teak Sealer

A cross between resin / polymer and oil. Sealer demonstrates mixed characteristics. Due to the presence of resin, there is less carbonization and so less darkening. The more advanced products have an anti color pigment within, so stay lighter longer. Annual scrubbing is required should you want to get the natural color back.

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Teak Decking

Fiberglass is practical, teak decking is beautiful. Of course it needs constant attention and watchfulness. Teak deck maintenance is a must.

Sailors who understand the material present on their deck are in an informed position to choose between the two. With the increase in pollution, comes another wood predator.

Beware damp

The wood is very strong. However it can be undermined from all sides. Firstly by damp. The teak deck caulking between the planks is subjected to wear and tear. This in turn allows moisture into contact with the wood. Once damp is established it undermines the finishing on the planks. If the area is not swiftly fixed, then the water will get underneath.

Pollution

Pollution attacks wood by dissolving in rain. Through acid erosion, finishes and varnishes become less protective, so the surface is reached. The best way to prevent this protective breech is teak deck maintenance the preferred varnish or finish regularly. Wooden decks are for mindful sailors. Upkeep is mandatory and so not for the faint hearted.

Take advantage! West Marine are offering a 10% discount, when you spend over $100!

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Teak Decks

Teak deck repairs is perceived as difficult, however with a little practice – not so. Decks are sexier than hulls. The hull serves it’s purpose out of sight. Decks on the other hand are on full view. Either in teak or fiberglass.

Teak Deck repairs are made from a variety of materials being teak or caulk, which in itself causes trouble. Hulls are produced with one material and are generally protected by water. Decks are exposed to weather, people, strains, stains and tensions. Not missing the environmental considerations too.

Teak

Teak decking need care. They get covered in grime, rained on, sun damaged and if you live were temperatures vary enough then expansion and contraction occurs. So they need cleaning, re sanding and re caulking as part of your schedule of maintenance.

The active ingredient in teak cleaner is Oxalic acid. It lifts dirt off the wood and brings back the original color. Oxalic acid is the Rolls Royce of teak cleaners. You can get the same effect from your General Motor – aka Ajax!

Having wet the teak deck you need to scrub with your cleaner going with the grain. Scrub thoroughly until the darkness is removed and then rinse off. The dark can also be carbonization. This is the when your ‘finish’ changes color with the sun.

While the deck is still wet

As part of your teak deck repairs: This is a great time to check the black teak deck caulk that runs between the  planks. Watch as the surfaces close to the caulk dries. Are there any areas which remain damp?

If the caulking areas do not dry evenly, then action ought to be taken. What has happened is that the sealing quality of the caulk has deteriorated, allowing water underneath – not good!

Cutting out damp

So taking a razor, cut out the damp section including several inches on either side and gently remove. Make sure all the caulk is gone before continuing. Prime the plank surfaces and follow drying instructions.

Before re caulking mask the planks on either side to prevent mess and frustration later – more deck repair! Mix the caulk up in the proportions indicated on the instructions and put the mixture in caulking tube.

Application

Cut the tip of the tube’s nozzle diagonally for best results. Then apply the mixture starting from the bottom, evenly along the groove. Using the back of the razor rather than the edge, run it over the freshly applied caulk and level off.

Teak decking becomes uneven over time. By gently re sanding those areas that are raised you remove the issue. Once sanded the planks need to be varnished in keeping with the proofing requirements of the deck.

Teak refinishing protects the wood and stops water getting in. Eventually you will have to think about re planking your decking as the planking thins. That’s teak deck repairs!

Time for some West Marine products?

As ever you can depend on the knowledge and qulaity assurance of West Marine. 

Pick out your tools below:

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Boat Paints

Basic Boat Paints Types:

Before you start on your project, you need to research what's what. The following is an overall look at those.

Thinners

Thinners are an integral part of boat paints system. They should be used periodically through the process.  Thinners stop bristles sticking together and allows smooth application. Use thinners at least ever hour if not more frequently. Especially when you take breaks.

Primer / Undercoats

Most overlay systems are a two part process. The first coat is to prepare the surface for the topcoat. Depending on which brand you choose, determines how many undercoats you need. Always check drying times. It's best to do one full coat at a time so the drying time is easier to follow.

Primers can be used underwater or on deck but read the instructions first.

Topcoats

Tend to be hi gloss finishes. The are made from an epoxy base which dries to a shiny finish - unless otherwise stated. If you are using a brush or roller, wear a mask to protect yourself from fumes. If you choose to spray on coatings, then be extra careful as the vaporised paint is highly toxic!

Two Pack Epoxy Systems

Epoxy based product that helps to prevent / cure osmosis. The epoxy is a resin which fills any scratches or blemishes in the hull. A thorough inspection of the hull should be a primary consideration when the boat is out of the water. Osmosis damage can be spotted by blisters appearing on the hull.

If you need to use epoxy, do so before painting the hull.

Varnishes

If you want to protect your woodwork without boat paint, then varnish is the answer. Usually tung oil. It can also protect against UV damage. When applying varnish be extra careful that you don't put too much on your brush at anyone time.

Because of it's flow characteristics, varnish can be tricky. Practice is best prior to application. So you get a sense of the product and how easily it is to use.

What to look out for with paints

• Shelf life is two years - check, but read below

• Ask what conditions it has been kept in, if stored in cool, dry conditions then five year old is fine

• When considering two part paint, use the right curing agent

• Beware curing agent storage - cool dry, not moist, damp

• Look out for colors discontinuing - you may need to alter the color of your vessel!

Customer Service

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Boat Painting

What to bear in mind when boat painting: Bright work screams a message to all that see it. The content of that message is down to you! Preparation work is essential to sending a positive one!

Preparation

For deck and hull work the following is a good indication of what to do prior to fulfilling the inner artist:

• Clear the deck of hardware and anything that is screwed down where you want to paint. This allows a continuous paint application and reduces potentially premature wear. Particularly at points where the hardware would have met the paint.

• Thoroughly clean the surface in preparation for boat painting. Using a mild detergent won't do any harm. The tough bit is getting rid of grease which has built up underneath hardware overtime. Acetone is useful at shifting grease.

• De waxing might be called for if silicone has been used as a temporary sealant. The results your looking for are smooth, clean surfaces. If the surfaces are not clear of residues and smooth, then the imperfections will be visible.

• Be sure the current finish is not flaky as this will ruin your effects when you have finished. As the brush passes over the flakes, they will lift off and disrupt your application, moving flakes around with your brush will not end happily!

• Sand back the previous paint work gently removing the flakes. If flakes are present, it's best to sand the full area just in case. Sweep or vacuum the dust away and then prime the surface with mineral spirit.

• Choose your day wisely as rain will streak freshly applied paint!

Choosing The Right Tools - Brushes / Rollers

The right tools can set apart a good job from bad. Investing in top end brushes and rollers will do your bright work justice. The quality of a brush / roller is reflected in how the paint goes on. Avoid brushes where bristles easily fall out. Cleaning and wrapping your tools after each use will repay your investment.

Choose from the range of brushes and paints below

The sooner you start your project the soon you could be the admiration of the whole marina!

Did you know about the 10% discount at West Marine right now?

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