Eight Inboard Engine Seasonal Checks

Recently, comments have been left on the posts over a range of topics. Ten seasonal checks for your inboard engine is a drawing together of those questions:

Here are those checks which should be conducted seasonally or when indicated - more frequently.

Securing the mounting bolts

As marine diesel engines shudder, shake and generally produce a lot of vibration, even on good days, you should tighten all the supporting bolts. A securely fastened motor, wont jump out of it's fixtures. The more time your engine is left on, or is working, the more vibrations run through the bolts and loosen them.

Tightening the stuffing box

Ensure that only a few drops of liquid are escaping from the box. If this is the case great. If not then take two wrenches and tighten the nuts accordingly. Release the clamps to check for corrosion, rotate to hose and reclamp at each end. If the hose is cracked or worn - replace. Check over each component that makes up the unit.

Tighten screws, replace worn parts. Once the engine has been running a while check the stuffing box for temperature, if it is hot, then you need to repack the stuff to minimize wear.

Gasket head test

Check coolant for oil. Take a glass and partially fill with coolant from the expansion tank. Give it a moment to settle. What do you see? If the liquid is oily or milky in color, then thoroughly go over the gasket head for signs of wear. More information on gasket heads

Exhaust pipe examination

Taking a spot light, examine the pipe for signs of corrosion. When diesel is combusted, thirty five percent of the total amount is driven off as exhaust. This exhaust is highly corrosive and therefore the exhaust pipe will suffer. Signs of weakness maybe masked by oil deposits, jacketing around the pipe and so on. If pitting is visible over the exterior, then the pipe must be replaced.

Belt tensions

Ought to taught and elastic. Some give is good. Cracked belts are dangerous, so replace them. Check all wiring and connects at the same time as belts. Faulty wiring leads to aluminum corrosion

Leaks

Check all hoses, pipes and connectors. Use a  clean cloth to determine any leaks. Be sure to wipe underneath them as well. That's where accumulation occurs. Generally the condition they need to be in is soft, and squeezable. Not the pipes of course. If they are in that condition - replace! Search for kinks too. Places where gases and fluids accumulate. If a back log starts then that will lead to a series of interconnected problems later on.

Pumps and filters

Check the fuel pump, fuel filters and fuel supply shut off valve. The minimum requirement of the filters is to stop water getting in and to absorb contaminates. Check them daily, or before each use. If after three months you find the bowl needs draining, then you should also clean the fuel tank.

Each time you change the oil, change the filter as well. You need to be able to get a wrench around the canister in order to change the filter. Change the oil seasonally or every one hundred and twenty five hours. Which ever comes first! Remember the fuel injector gradually wears and should be tested seasonally. This makes sure the fuel is being atomized effectively.

Monitor the drip catch tray under the engine and the bilges too. These act as early warning signs as to the health of your motor. This should be done daily or before you fire up.

Water pump

As the cooling of marine engines is critical to safe use, the water pump needs thorough, frequent inspections.

• Thirty percent of energy in combustion is heat

• Thirty five percent is exhaust

• Thirty five percent is usable power

Overheating causes damage very quickly with a series of knock on effects. You need to ensure that regardless as to your type of cooling system (direct / indirect) that the flow of raw water is not impeded. Plus that the impeller is able to operate. Direct cooling systems, require less overall maintaining, as they are simpler. Indirect systems have added components and so are more timely.

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