How To Size A Boat Fender To Fit Your Sailboat
January 23, 2010 by Chris Wethered
Filed under Boat Engines And Sailboat Hardware, Sailboat Rigging And Marine Rope
Ensuring your boat is protected
at the dock is at the heart of this post. Our video from West Marine centers around the range of how to size your boat fender correctly. There are a few
basic rules that you should follow in order to maintain your boat correctly dockside. There is a range of boat bumpers covered in the video, naturally everyone needs a specific type of
fender to suit there boat. The design features of the different products are clearly demonstrated, so you can be sure to make the correct purchasing decision.
The number one rule that should be adhered to is:
One inch of fender diameter for every five feet of boat length
The second rule to follow is:
Two shock absorbers for every ten feet of boat length
So if you have a thirty feet boat you should have six fenders that are at least five inches in diameter, five fenders to be tied on to the rails and one to be used as roving whilst docking.
Here's Chuck to explain
Two names
that are at the heart of the market are Taylor and Hull Gard, you will see a lot of products made by these brands. Indeed Hull Gard is a Taylor brand.
The materials used in boat fenders are types of vinyl. In general soft vinyl is used to for the protective, cushioning parts and harder vinyl is used for the eyelets. Of course you can match the color of your fenders to suit your hull color and accessorize them with covers if you wish.
Most designs have an inflation valve which allows you to moderate the amount of air inside the chambers. You need the cushioning to be firm to the touch, so that a buffer zone is established.
In the larger designs, the valve has been adapted to fit a Philips bit, which means you can use an air compressor to speed up the filling.
Taylor boat fenders come in many shapes and sizes. West Marine have some innovative docking solutions too!
Features include:
- An eyelet at either end, meaning you can hang the buffer either vertically or horizontally
- Valves to offering adjustable inflation pressures from the boat bumpers
- Ribbing, which provides added protection
- Inflatable fenders, inflatable vinyl for stowage are also available if you need
- Modular foam filled fenders mean you can construct unique fending solutions, for your particular needs
Time to get your docking and tendering solutions!
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Using A Marine Engine Additive In Your Fuel?
October 22, 2009 by Chris Wethered
Filed under Boat Engines And Sailboat Hardware, Questions Visitors Are Asking And Answers
The advantages of using a marine engine additive are as follows:
- Removal of unwanted water from your fuel
Ready to clean and run your engine better
- Keep your tanks, lines and marine engine parts clean
- Increase fuel efficiency
- Prevent fuel injectors from blocking
- Reduce harmful emissions
- Stop algae and micro bacteria from fouling your tanks and lines
- Improve engine speed
Ah! the trusty sound of a Volvo Penta coming to life!
Removing particles from dirty fuel
The additive system identifies foreign, unwanted particles in the fuel and dissolves them. So they are passed through the engine without causing trouble.
Tackling water in the diesel engine
Water causes low performance and increases the risk of inboard engine parts becoming faulty. Having the additive works by dispersing the water at a molecular level. This means that it is able to run through the engine parts harmlessly.
Fuel injectors and cylinder heads
Stop the build up of unwanted soot and lower damage to these complex components. Both fuel injectors and cylinder heads require diligent maintenance. Having additive in your fuel means that the injectors are not susceptible to blockage, whilst the cylinder heads are kept clear of unwanted soot.
Reduce emissions and go faster!
Yes! You can do both! The additive increases combustion and lowers emissions of hydro carbons, sulphur dioxide and carbon dioxide. All products of combustion. Through this efficiency you get increased boatspeed.
We will be able to reveal our star performer shortly, so bookmark this post!
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Removing Marine Engine Fuel Injectors
August 9, 2009 by Chris Wethered
Filed under Boat Engines And Sailboat Hardware, Questions Visitors Are Asking And Answers
If your motor is complaining from the symptoms below, then the fuel injectors or related components need attention:
- Erratic RPM
- Difficulty in starting, engine dying
- Knocking noises
- White or black smoke
The reasons for the above can be attributed to:
- Contamination of the fuel or fuel lines - dirt
- Faulty washers
- Water in the fuel
- Poor maintenance
Fuel filter
Before getting to the title topic, let's go over the importance of the filters. Diesel engines operate within very fine parameters. The force and timing of the injector itself is measured at twenty thousands PSI and can be pumped up to ten times each second! For this process to run smoothly, you must make sure those filters are replaced frequently! Water and dirt contribute to deterioration of the parts.
Selection of fuel injectors
Additives
Depending on where the diesel is distilled, different additives are used along with Sulfur. The additives can prolong the effective life of the diesel, but at the same time deteriorate the fueling components. Taking Sulfur as an example: On combustion it forms a highly corrosive gas that is absorbed by engine oil. Over time the oil becomes more toxic and needs to be changed. Keeping the filters and lines clean will go a long way to prolonging the life of the injectors.
Operational check up:
- If your engine displays the symptoms described then check fuel supply is free of air
- Look at the fuel shut off valve - is it closed?
- Remove injector lines from pumps
- Whilst turning over the starter engine, watch for splodges of fuel are shot from the injector heads
- If not, bleed the lines of air and repeat
Before removing the injectors, get a mechanic to double check the situation, this would be cheaper than replacing the injectors!
Parts overview
Removing the fuel injectors:
- Having taken off the lines, see whether the component will move without too much trouble. This done to maintenance. If well looked after it will be easy, if not then lubricate with deep penetrating oil and twist side to side.
- Now clean the component of all rust, combusted materials etc. Toweling is helpful. Replace the washers.
- Replace the injector and the lines, tighten accordingly. Flush out the air from the lines and try the engine.
It's time to pour on the goodies! West Marine offer a 10% discount on orders over $100!
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How To Maintain The Cylinder Heads On Marine Engines
August 7, 2009 by Chris Wethered
Filed under Boat Engines And Sailboat Hardware, Questions Visitors Are Asking And Answers
Pistons and cylinder heads, get more wear than any other marine engine components. Without regular maintenance the following signs need to be monitored:
- Overheating
- Distortion
- Leaking
- Coughing
- Power lose
cylinder heads providing an air tight seal - the cover
Overheating
This can mean cracking of the cylinder head. The reason for this is adding cold water to an overheated engine. If this is the case, then change your cylinder head.
Distortion
The seal between cylinder head and engine block is not strong. Any unevenness will lead to air, oil or coolant transfer. The temperature differential means added stress and so distortion occurs. Avoid this by tightening the bolts frequently.
Coughing
The gasket beneath the cylinder head maybe leaking. The coughing is due to engine coolant mixing with oil. The worse this gets, the less likely your engine will start!
Power lose
If you experience this then this demonstrates a lot of cylinder wear
Filters
The air intake filter is important to regulating the engine heat. Make sure it is clear at all times
The above signs and reasons, are associated with cylinder head trouble. Usually they are contributory factors, that if monitored as part of the marine engine maintenance process, prolong the lifespan of your motor.
once cover removed, here are the heads
If your analysis leads you to wanting to do a cylinder head compression test, then here is an outline. You ought to be aware, that this test requires an understanding of the comparasion of cylinders and that the outcome may not be totally accurate.
In other words, if you determine that a cylinder is faulty - get it checked by a mechanic before going further!
Compression testing
- Take a dummy injector with a gauge measure
- Remove the injectors, test each cylinder individually. Turn over the starter engine to develop compression and whilst the dummy injector is in position, watch the pressure gauge
- Perform the test with out oil first - dry on all the heads write down the pressures as you go
- Now do the same again - wet, this is were you may notice the gauge pressure increase much quicker!
- If there was no significant increase in pressure, then your problem could lie with the valve seats
- If there is then consider the piston rings
Bare in mind: changing over these parts is tricky and if you are not experienced, could lead to bad experience! (Talk about killing off the fun!)
It's time to pour on the goodies with West Marine! That's right! When you spend over $100 you get 10% discount!
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Eight Inboard Engine Seasonal Checks
August 6, 2009 by Chris Wethered
Filed under Boat Engines And Sailboat Hardware, Questions Visitors Are Asking And Answers
Recently, comments have been left on the posts over a range of topics. Ten seasonal checks for your inboard engine is a drawing together of those questions:
Here are those checks which should be conducted seasonally or when indicated - more frequently.
Securing the mounting bolts
As marine diesel engines shudder, shake and generally produce a lot of vibration, even on good days, you should tighten all the supporting bolts. A securely fastened motor, wont jump out of it's fixtures. The more time your engine is left on, or is working, the more vibrations run through the bolts and loosen them.
Tightening the stuffing box
Ensure that only a few drops of liquid are escaping from the box. If this is the case great. If not then take two wrenches and tighten the nuts accordingly. Release the clamps to check for corrosion, rotate to hose and reclamp at each end. If the hose is cracked or worn - replace. Check over each component that makes up the unit.
Tighten screws, replace worn parts. Once the engine has been running a while check the stuffing box for temperature, if it is hot, then you need to repack the stuff to minimize wear.
Zinc anode part of your seasonal checks?
Gasket head test
Check coolant for oil. Take a glass and partially fill with coolant from the expansion tank. Give it a moment to settle. What do you see? If the liquid is oily or milky in color, then thoroughly go over the gasket head for signs of wear. More information on gasket heads
Exhaust pipe examination
Taking a spot light, examine the pipe for signs of corrosion. When diesel is combusted, thirty five percent of the total amount is driven off as exhaust. This exhaust is highly corrosive and therefore the exhaust pipe will suffer. Signs of weakness maybe masked by oil deposits, jacketing around the pipe and so on. If pitting is visible over the exterior, then the pipe must be replaced.
Belt tensions
Ought to taught and elastic. Some give is good. Cracked belts are dangerous, so replace them. Check all wiring and connects at the same time as belts. Faulty wiring leads to aluminum corrosion
Leaks
Check all hoses, pipes and connectors. Use a clean cloth to determine any leaks. Be sure to wipe underneath them as well. That's where accumulation occurs. Generally the condition they need to be in is soft, and squeezable. Not the pipes of course. If they are in that condition - replace! Search for kinks too. Places where gases and fluids accumulate. If a back log starts then that will lead to a series of interconnected problems later on.
Cylinder gasket heads
Pumps and filters
Check the fuel pump, fuel filters and fuel supply shut off valve. The minimum requirement of the filters is to stop water getting in and to absorb contaminates. Check them daily, or before each use. If after three months you find the bowl needs draining, then you should also clean the fuel tank.
Each time you change the oil, change the filter as well. You need to be able to get a wrench around the canister in order to change the filter. Change the oil seasonally or every one hundred and twenty five hours. Which ever comes first! Remember the fuel injector gradually wears and should be tested seasonally. This makes sure the fuel is being atomized effectively.
Monitor the drip catch tray under the engine and the bilges too. These act as early warning signs as to the health of your motor. This should be done daily or before you fire up.
Water pump
As the cooling of marine engines is critical to safe use, the water pump needs thorough, frequent inspections.
- Thirty percent of energy in combustion is heat
- Thirty five percent is exhaust
- Thirty five percent is usable power
Overheating causes damage very quickly with a series of knock on effects. You need to ensure that regardless as to your type of cooling system (direct / indirect) that the flow of raw water is not impeded. Plus that the impeller is able to operate. Direct cooling systems, require less overall maintaining, as they are simpler. Indirect systems have added components and so are more timely.
It's time to pour on the goodies with West Marine! That's right! When you spend over $100 you get 10% discount!
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