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How To Size A Boat Fender To Fit Your Sailboat

Ensuring your boat is protected

at the dock is at the heart of this post. Our video from West Marine centers around the range of how to size your boat fender correctly. There are a few

basic rules that you should follow in order to maintain your boat correctly dockside. There is a range of boat bumpers covered in the video, naturally everyone needs a specific type of

fender to suit there boat. The design features of the different products are clearly demonstrated, so you can be sure to make the correct purchasing decision.

The number one rule that should be adhered to is:

One inch of fender diameter for every five feet of boat length

The second rule to follow is:

Two shock absorbers for every ten feet of boat length

So if you have a thirty feet boat you should have six fenders that are at least five inches in diameter, five fenders to be tied on to the rails and one to be used as roving whilst docking.

Here's Chuck to explain

Two names

that are at the heart of the market are Taylor and Hull Gard, you will see a lot of products made by these brands. Indeed Hull Gard is a Taylor brand.

The materials used in boat fenders are types of vinyl. In general soft vinyl is used to for the protective, cushioning parts and harder vinyl is used for the eyelets. Of course you can match the color of your fenders to suit your hull color and accessorize them with covers if you wish.

Most designs have an inflation valve which allows you to moderate the amount of air inside the chambers. You need the cushioning to be firm to the touch, so that a buffer zone is established.

In the larger designs, the valve has been adapted to fit a Philips bit, which means you can use an air compressor to speed up the filling.

Taylor boat fenders come in many shapes and sizes. West Marine have some innovative docking solutions too!

Features include:

• An eyelet at either end, meaning you can hang the buffer either vertically or horizontally

• Valves to offering adjustable inflation pressures from the boat bumpers

• Ribbing, which provides added protection

• Inflatable fenders, inflatable vinyl for stowage are also available if you need

• Modular foam filled fenders mean you can construct unique fending solutions, for your particular needs

Time to get your docking and tendering solutions!

Find out how to rig sailboats

Go to anchor rope

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How To Winterize Your Boat, Step Four: Preventing Mould And Cabin Damp

The topic of the fourth video in this series concerns preventing mold and damp

from taking over your cabin over the winter months. If you would like to view the other videos in the series, then you can find links at the bottom of this post. They cover all aspects of how to winterize your boat. If you have already covered those steps then it’s time to get to grips with the next short movie from West Marine.

In order to defend against damp and mold

taking hold you should follow the steps in the video which are summarized for you here:

• Remove all cushions,  foodstuffs and perishable items

• Take your electronics off the boat as well. This stops damp getting in and deters thieves

• Leave open all draws, lockers and cabinets to maximize circulating air

• Set up dehumidifiers as recommended by West Marine, use Starbrite Crystals or an a/c dehumidifier as determined by your local winter temperatures.

• Fully charge your batteries before taking them home for winter storage. Keep them topped off using a winter battery maintenance charger, you can buy one on this post below.  Storing your batteries on wood is the best method to preserve condition.

Products to buy and the next video in the series

The fifth video in the series is the final check over – don’t miss out!

Step one how to winterize your boat: cleaning

Step two how to winterize your boat: engine and lower unit

Step three how to winterize your boat:fresh and waste water

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How To Video: Winterize Your Boat’s Fresh And Waste Water Systems

Third in the series of five

videos for how to winterize your boat. This video demonstrates the procedures necessary to make sure your fresh water and waste water systems don't freeze up during the winter months. It's a quick video and covers all the aspects for you.

Open taps and faucets

By opening the taps and faucets and then turning on the pump, you are removing all the water from the lines and tank. This step means you don't leave the system at risk of freezing over the winter.

Antifreeze

Open the tanks and pour in environmentally friendly antifreeze, as recommended by West Marine and their Clean Ocean brand (available at the bottom of this post)

Close the tanks

Along with the tanks, also close the taps and faucets, except the one furthests from the tank. Draw the antifreeze through the lines until it pulls through the tap. Do this for both hot and cold taps. Systematically repeat the process until you have antifreeze flowing through all the faucets - remember to turn them off as you go! Don't forget the hot water heater too!

The waste system

Go round the heads, removing the intake tube from the sea cock. Place the tube in a bucket full of antifreeze .
By flushing the head, you are drawing the antifreeze through the lines, including the holding tanks. Replace the hose to the sea cock. This is the end of the process! completing the third in the series of how to winterize your boat videos.

Select your antifreeze here

As mentioned, West Marine makes an environmentally friendly antifreeze, called Clean Ocean, buying this product saves the seas and oceans, making your boating remain beautiful. please select your products from the range below:

Related posts

Video one - cleaning your boat for winter

Video two - fixing the engine and lower unit for winter

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How To Winterize Your Boat – Step Two Video The Engine And Lower Unit

The aim of this next video

is to achieve peace of mind that your engines and lower units are safely prepared for Winter. The main issue to over come is freezing fluids left in the lines and chambers. This video takes us through how to accomplish this stage in the how to winterize your boat series.

Points to remember

• Using a fuel stabilizer in your tanks, stops air turning to condensation over Winter.  Water in the tanks leads to poor fuel problems in Spring.

• An alternative to fuel stabilizer is fuel water absorber.  If you have not added fuel stabilizer, then, in the Spring use the fuel water absorber.

• It's best to add the fuel stabilizer to minimize  the build of deposits in the lines over the Winter period. The deposits will accumulate and lead to burst lines or blockage over time.

The engine block

Use a non toxic anti freeze to drive the water out of the engine. Not only does the anti freeze drive out any condensation, but also inhibits corrosion. Using the highest concentration available, in other words the -75 degrees Fahrenheit over -50 Fahrenheit is safer and -100 Fahrenheit safer still.

This is because the anti freeze may become diluted by the water inside the engine block. Watching the video will clarify this valuable point.

Kit you will need for flushing the inboard engine of water

• A winterizing kit

• five gallons non toxic anti freeze

• Motor flusher

• Garden hose

The sequence is covered in the video, here is the outline for you:

• hook up the motor flusher to the garden hose. Then attach it to the raw water intake. Start the engine and allow it to reach normal operating temperature.

• This sequence prepares the engine, lines, carburetors and injectors for the anti freeze. Turn off the engine. Remove the flame resistor from the carburetor, then start the engine. Now open the tap on the anti freeze container, which is attached to the garden hose.

Fogging the carburetor

• The engine will begin to fill with anti freeze, towards the end of the process remove the spark plugs and start fogging the carburetor with a fine mist of marine spray oil.  polymers in the oil stop the combustion chambers from corroding. Using oil and fuel stabilizers means your combustion chambers are given twice the protection!

Learn more about protecting your engine here

Now for the outboard engine sequence

As you know, very similar to the inboard sequence, but:

• Take the raw water intake nozzle from the seacock and put in a bucket full of anti freeze - non toxic as recommended by West Marine.

• When the bucket is almost empty the anti freeze will have reached the carburetors and injectors. Now is the time to fog. Removing the spark pugs and fogging the combustion chambers for double protection in combination with using fuel stabilizer.

Changing the oil

You can use either a manual pump or an automatic. Changing the oil now, means you won't have bits of gunk coming out of solution and depositing in your lines over the Winter.

• After warming the engine, connect the pump tubing to the dip stick and pump the old oil out. If it is milky in color then you have just saved yourself a messy task in the Spring.! Oil left over Winter comes out of suspension and the milky white color indicates a build up of corrosive acids in the oil.

Cleaning the lower unit of your outboard or sterndrive

• Find the manufacturers recommended lower unit fluid, so the fluid and lower unit are working in harmony.

• Remove the vent plug from the top of the unit, also the drain plug at the bottom.  Attach the fluid bottle to the vent plug.  Start the pump, wait until the fluid runs out of the drain plug, or the dip stick indicates full.

• Replace the vent plug first then the drain plug. If the fluid that has run through is milky in color, have the unit serviced as this indicates wear within the lower unit.

The shop and the next video in the series

Having watched the video and understood the products required, make your selection below:
When you are ready go to the next video in the series.

Related posts

How to winterize your boat video one

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